Kathmandu to Istanbul

Kathmandu to Istanbul route plan

Join Odyssey Overland for an epic expedition as we drive overland from Kathmandu in Nepal to Istanbul in Turkey via the Silk Road. A 12-week expedition in a custom built overland truck. If you want to see a huge part of the world up close and personal and experience things you'll never read about in your guide book, this could be the trip for you! Check out the route and travel where only a select few have gone. We travel at a pace that allows us to really appreciate the places we visit and get off the beaten tourist track where ever we can to find the special places.

Below is our intended route for our expedition from Kathmandu to Istanbul. This is a guide only; due to the nature of trans-continental expeditions things may change due to unexpected circumstances beyond our control. Such may include a bridge having washed away, a pass closed due to landslides or some silly border official having his day's fun with us.

This is all part of the adventure and we always make a plan. We may also change things as we go due to local festivals or unexpected highlights we wish to see. This is no ordinary trip. The itinerary is designed to be flexible and adds to the adventure! So the plan may change by a day here and there but overall the week-by-week plan below will be followed as closely as possible. This description is also just a very basic outline as there is so much to do and see it is impossible to cover it all in this short weekly plan. It is also worth checking out the Blogs for stories and photos from current and past expeditions.

Our expedition starts in the funky capital of Nepal, Kathmandu. This bustling 24/7 city is full of incredible sights, sounds and food and is a great place to spend a couple of days exploring. If hiking is your thing we recommend you get to Kathmandu a couple of weeks before departure for the opportunity to hike part of the legendary Anapurna Circuit. We have a local partner in Kathmandu who can arrange it all for you.

From Kathmandu we head north, with a stop off at The Last Resort, an adventure activity paradise. Fancy jumping off a 160m suspension bridge attached to a rubber band? Here’s the place, but if bungy isn’t your thing there is plenty else on offer from canyoning to white water rafting, or more sedate choices like massages. There is also great food and a chilled atmosphere to enjoy.

As we continue north we start to climb into the foothills of the Himalayas towards China.

Our time in China is the toughest section of our journey as we face vast deserts and extreme altitude, travelling at times as high as 5,300m above sea level. The potential of extreme weather and very basic facilities make this a real challenge and an adventure. Possibly the biggest challenge is the bureaucracy, but we have been there and done it before, it just takes a bit of time and a whole lot of patience.

Continuing along the Friendship Highway which links the two iconic cities of Kathmandu and Lhasa, our first stop in China is Everest Base Camp in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Known locally as Mt Qomolongma the highest mountain on earth is an incredible sight, so with fingers crossed for clear skies we stay in local family-run “hotels” at base camp, living and eating with the families. You also have the chance to visit Rongbruk Monastery, the highest monastery in the world.

We are at very high altitude for this section of the expedition with base camp sitting at 5,200m above sea level (the peak of Everest is more than 3km higher!). Altitude can be challenging but the rewards of travelling through this very special part of the world more than make up for the discomfort. The scenery as we wind up through the switchbacks to reach base camp is unforgettable.

Descending from the extreme altitude of Everest we head for Shigatse, Tibet's second major city and home to the Tashilhunpo Monastery, the chance to wander around this huge complex is not to be missed with its huge Buddhas with their intricate gold and jewel decorations.

We continue through the Tibetan Plateau, crossing more high passes bearing countless prayer flags which give the place a very special and spiritual feel. We camp-out in this rough harsh country, luckily we are coming through in late summer so the days are warm and the nights though cool are quite comfortable. The grasslands and surrounding mountains are amazing! We are also sure to see the hardy Tibetan yak herders going about their work, marvelling at how they can cope with the high altitude as we struggle to walk up a flight of stairs!

Lhasa is our next major stop, the once home of the Dalai Lama and the wonderful Potala Palace. A visit to the Jokhang Temple, Norbulingka Palace, Barkhur Circuit and the Drepsung and Sera Monasteries allow a deeper understanding of Buddhism. But this only scratches the surface as there is so much to see and experience in this iconic city and we spend three days here enjoying everything the city has to offer and a bit of comfort and luxury after roughing it through the Himalayas.

Continuing from Lhasa we descend from altitude heading for Dunhuang and our first Silk Road city. Dunhuang is the largest and historically most important oasis on this leg of the ancient silk route. We visit the fantastic Mogao Caves with their impressive Buddhist art.

As we wind north from Dunhuang we travel through the Gansu Corridor, a rugged section en-route to Turpan, the second lowest point on earth at 152m below sea level. It can get incredibly hot here, but the lack of humidity makes it quite pleasant. With its many trees, orchards and grape vines it has a real oasis feel. While here we visit the irrigation channels and the Jaiohe Ruins.

Continuing to follow the Silk Road we skirt the Taklamakan Desert. Taklamakan translated means 'go in and you won't come out', so it all makes sense as we skip from oasis to oasis. Doing just as the caravans would have done all those thousands of years before, though we do it with a touch more speed and comfort.

We enter the Xinjiang Autonomous Province of China, we head for the Silk Road town of Kashgar. This area is home to the Uyghurs people and in ancient times was a vital link on the Silk Road as well being a major centre when The Great Game was being played out between the Russians and the British. If the schedule allows we visit the century old Sunday market where more than 50,000 people come in from the countryside to barter, as they have done for thousands of years. The sight of a flying camel as it is loaded into a truck by a huge crane is not easily forgotten.

Kyrgyzstan is often rated as the favourite country of past expedition members, with its spectacular scenery, amazing bushcamps, hiking and horse riding and of course hospitable people. We cross into Kyrgyzstan via the Torugart Pass. Our first stop if Karakol where our accommodation is a local homestay and you have a chance to stock up at the market before we head for the hills.

Our destination is Song Kol Lake and we campout on its shores with stunning mountain backdrop. We camp alongside the local herders and we get gifts of fresh cream, and Kumis (fermented mare’s milk, definitely an acquired taste!) and get invited around for a traditional tea with fresh cream, jam and the local equivalent of a scone. It’s possible to watch a game of 'Ulak-Tartys' goat polo a truly strange national game played with a goat’s carcass. The local horsemen are in a class of their own when it comes to games. Opportunities to trek and horse ride are boundless, or just time to relax with the locals and watch life trickle past.

From here we wind our way through stunning mountain passes to Issyk-Kul Lake. At 170km long and 70km wide, this is no small pond. We explore the shore around the lake, trekking and camping on the beaches of the lake as we go. A side trip to the Diety Orgus Gorge is well worth the detour, the entrance is guarded by seven huge red sandstone cliffs, offering some of the best trekking and horse riding in the area, not to mention a chance to meet the locals who have trekked up with their herds in the spring to these green stunning valleys. The locals live in traditional yurts, tents made from sheep wool felt which have been amazingly decorated on the inside and an invitation to enter one is a great way to get an insight into a very different way of life.

After all that time in the wilderness, we head for Bishkek, the modern Soviet style capital of Kyrgyzstan. With wide tree-lined streets and the odd statue of Lenin and his cronies scattered in the many parks, it is a great town to wander.

This is true Silk Road country with the amazing Silk Road cities of Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva to explore. When Alexander the Great arrived in the 4th century BC these towns were already thriving trade posts. This is the land of the great Khanates and Sultanates.

First we take a short trip through Kazakhstan, this is done to go around the Ferghana Valley and the towns of Osh and Jalalabad which lately have seen a fair amount of ethnic disturbance, but also gives us the chance to visit Aksu-Dzhabagly Nature Reserve and enjoy some Kazakh hospitality in a home stay.

Our first stop in Uzbekistan is Tashkent the capital city. Tashkent was the fourth largest city in the old Soviet Union. It is now the major city of Central Asia. Very different with its clean modern feel, it was almost totally rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1966. A great place to stock up with all the creature comforts which you have not seen for while. We spend a night out on the razz Russian style.

From Tashkent we head for Samarkand. Our local guide starts to bring the history to life as you explore the mosques and madrassas of Registan Square, and wander through the elaborately decorated tombs of the necropolis. Enjoy a lagman (noodle soup) overlooking the square or find some deep fried goodness or fresh food and vegetables in the market.

Our next stop is Bukhara. Considered by many to be the holiest city in Central Asia, though possibly better known for its infamous prison, the bug pit. This is where Colonel Stoddart and Captain Conolly were held before being executed during the years of the Great Game (see the suggested reading section of the Pre-departure information for some great books about the Great Game and our route). It’s not only the many stunning mosques, madrasses and minarets, most open as museums that make Bukhara great. It’s the old living city which makes it so interesting. Here you can wander for hours amongst the markets and narrow little streets. It’s an interesting and very Muslim way of life, something you rapidly start to enjoy.

Our final stop in Uzbekistan will be Khiva, the best preserved of these three wonderful cities. Its stunning turquoise tiled mosaics are awe-inspiring. As we wander this almost totally intact ancient city we visit the Juma Mosque, Islam Hodja Madrassa, the Kukhna Ark and many other highlights. Our local guide gives us a great insight as to how life must have been in years gone by. Lads; wait until you hear about the harems, ladies; you may not be so impressed! Sit on the rooftop of our local family run hotel at the end of the day and watch the sunset, it’s good for the soul!

As we leave the harsh desert landscape we enter the Oxus Valley and visit the ancient ruins of Kunye Urgench. Whilst here we see the Kutluk Timur Minaret the tallest in Asia at 62m. From here it a short hop to the Uzbekistan border.

Our travels to date have covered a huge amount of history, but keep in mind it’s not all about the history. We will really get to know the local people, get to experience their traditions, food, drink and way of life. It’s not strange in this part of the world to meet a total stranger and be invited to their house for a drink and then be forced to leave with a gift. There will also be time to go trekking in the amazing countryside as we travel, staying in some amazing places. Not to mention the odd party and the fun of travelling as a group.

This is a unique country visited by only an adventurous few each year. Ruler ever since the break-up of the Soviet Union till his death a short while ago, Turkmenbashi had a certain sense of style and it is all a bit surreal.

Continuing south from the border we cross the barren plains of the Karakum Desert, the hottest desert in Central Asia. This harsh landscape which covers most of Turkmenistan, like most deserts has a harsh beauty.

An unforgettable sight as we travel through the desert is the burning Darvaza Gas Crater we head out to the crater as the sun sets to really appreciate this massive burning crater.

The capital city Ashgabat is difficult to describe. A gold statue of Turkmenbashi which slowly rotates so that his face always faces the sun takes centre stage, surrounded by white marble government buildings - the last thing you would expect in this tucked away seldom heard about country. A visit to the vast Tolkuchka Sunday Market is a must. Just outside Ashgabat the market functions much as it has done for thousands of years. Fancy buying a camel, old Russian coins, amazing carpets or even a huge ex Soviet army truck? It’s all up for grabs at this amazing market.

Azerbaijan is an oil rich country with a predominately Muslim population, steeped in history and a vital point in Silk Road times it is dotted with forts and historic sites.

Just getting to Azerbaijan is an adventure in itself as we try to talk our way onto an old Russian ferry to cross the Caspian Sea from Turkmenbashi port to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. Getting onto the boat is one thing, getting off is quite another as the boats are known to sit outside the port for 2 days before offloading! So we bring food on board and settle in for the journey.

Baku is a modern bustling oil town on the Absheron Peninsula with the oil practically oozing out of the ground. The scenery gets more desolate as we approach. All around us we can see the oil pumps seesawing up and down. We visit the Maiden's Tower and the Shirvan Shakh Palace. Steeped in history and dotted with forts, it is great to explore.

As we head for Sheki, we stop off at a very special free camp found on the 2008 expedition, imagine active mud volcanoes with a landscape best described as a Star Wars movie set.

Our final stop in Azerbaijan is Sheki a fantastic town set in a valley with its wonderful caravanserai, now a unique hotel where we spend the night. Once a Silk Road Traders Inn, you start to understand a bit more about the history of the Silk Road. A visit to the Khan's Palace is a must for its intricate interior and exterior decoration. To explore the town is like taking a step back in time.

Georgia, the friendly face of the Caucasus, where tourists are still a novelty and the history and landscapes will blow your mind. The self-proclaimed “home of wine”, the food, wine, and hospitality are incredible. An ancient Christian country, we will get to visit many stunning sights, some of the Christian monuments date back to the fifth century. Once through the very Cold War style border we are off to explore this friendly country. We load up our local guide to show us the true Georgia. We have local guides for many of the countries we visit as they give us a unique insight into their country. Many have been joining us on expeditions for years and live to show you the country which they are passionate about.

We start our exploration of Georgia in the capital, Tbilisi. founded in the 5th century and once a control point on the Silk Road, it has a rich history. Imagine Prague without the tourists with great local cafes and bars on the small cobbles streets allowing you to wander or sit and watch the world go by. The whole town has the typical Georgian friendly feel. If you are up for it, the local opera house is well worth a visit. This is also a great party town, though watch out for the locals, they drink vodka like water and as their guest normally expect you to join in!

From here we head back into rural countryside and head for Kakheti, the heart of Georgian wine making. We visit home wine makers and try the fierce Chacha, the local grape based firewater. This is ideal country for free camping and most small villages have a special area for travellers to set-up camp. It's amazing to set-up camp out here and the locals bring you gifts as they have done for centuries. True Georgian hospitality! Then it’s on to the Gremi Architectural complex a great example of the Georgian adaptation of the Persian style of architecture with stunning patterned brick work.

Then on to Kutaisi, Georgia's second city, with a history traced back more than 4000 years. We spend the night in a local homestay and experience true Georgian hospitality. We visit the ruins of the Bagrati Cathedral from the 11th century and wander the cobbled streets. We also experience the great Georgian tradition of toasting and the red wine flows freely. Every household worth its salt makes their own delicious wine and it is great. We will be sure to stock the bar on the truck with a couple of litres of this fine wine. If wine is not your thing the local pear and fennel soft drink is amazing!

From here we head into rural Georgia up into the mountains. If the snow has retreated enough we head up into Kazbegi for amazing treks to a glacier and hilltop church. The itinerary is flexible as we explore this fantastic country. As we do this we stop off in Gori, the place of Stalin's birth and we visit the Stalin museum and view his old state rail carriage. The museum curator gives us a tour of the museum and gives us the story of Stalin very different from the version in most history books. We also make a stop in Uplistsikhe where we find signs of the Silk Road and explore the caves.

Next we head for somewhere very special and hidden away from most tourists. Located in the heart of Svanetia, Mestia is the main town and cultural heart of the Svan people. Though their language is different from Georgian, the Svan epitomise all that is Georgian and represent the heart of Georgian culture. Only in 1935 was a “road” built to link Mestia with the outside world, we have the chance to explore the siege towers and do a day trip to Ushguli a small mountain hamlet. Home of about 6 families of cheese makers who have to make enough cheese in summer to sell to be able to buy enough food to last the six months they will be snowed in during the winter. Their other claim to fame is that they are the highest permanently inhabited village in “Europe”, yep we also thought we were still in Asia.

Next it's to the nearby town of Batumi, a former Soviet resort town. We get our first chance to taste some of Georgia's diverse food in one of the many cafes along the waterfront. With its fantastic mountain backdrop and coastal town feel, you can easily understand why this was once a premier Soviet era resort town!

En-route to the border we stop off at the Gonio fortress an ancient, almost totally intact Roman-Byzantine fort with 18 towers, said to be one of the best examples of this type of architecture in the world. Then it is farewell to Georgia, and hello to Turkey.

Turkey, the gateway between two continents - an exotic mixing pot of cultures. stunning landscapes and immense history.

Continuing along the Black Sea coast our first stop is Trabzon where we explore old churches and wonderful Byzantine frescoes. The local bazaars make an interesting shopping trip, and sitting on the square watching the local men put the world to rights over a cup of tea of two is fascinating.

From here it’s off to the heart of Cappodocia and Goreme.

Known as the enchanted valley you almost expect a gnome or elf to pop out as we explore the underground cities and churches in the wind and water sculptured moon-like landscape with our local guide. The chance to get in a hot air balloon and drift over this landscape is not to be missed. We also get to experience the local food and dance as well as seeing many other sights. Great walks to be done or grab a bike and explore the area on your own wheels.

Time to leave Asia behind and cross into Europe as we cross the Bosphorous heading for the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul and a great place for a party to celebrate the completion of our expedition! Istanbul is a wonderful place for you to spend a couple of days exploring with plenty to see and do. Wonder at the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia or take a cruise on the Bosphorus, the divide between Europe and Asia. Head for the Grand Bazaar and haggle away the day while sipping on scented sweet tea, or grab a fish sandwich down on the riverfront.

Another great way to get a clearer idea of how these expeditions work is to check out the Trip Blogs. This has many more great photos and stories of past expeditions!

 

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Want to know more?

Click on the links below to find out everything you need to know about this epic expedition:

• Overview and highlights
• Weekly route plan
• Optional activities
• Food & accommodation
• Pre-trip planning
• Costs & booking