London to Darwin
15 April - 8 October 2008
London to Darwin route plan
Join Odyssey Overland for the adventure of your lifetime as we drive overland from London to Darwin, Australia. A 26-week expedition in a custom built overland truck. If you want to see a huge part of the world up close and personal and experience things you'll never read about in your guide book, this could be the trip for you! Check out the route and travel where only a select few have gone!
Below is our intended route for our 26 week expedition from London, UK to Darwin, Australia. This is a guide only; due to the nature of trans continental expedition things may change due to unexpected circumstances beyond our control. Such may include a bridge having washed away, a pass closed due to landslides or some silly border official having his day's fun with us.
This is all part of the adventure and we always make a plan. We may also change things as we go due to local festivals or unexpected highlights we wish to see. This is no ordinary trip! The itinerary is designed to be flexible and adds to the adventure! So the plan may change by a day here and there but overall the week-by-week plan below will be followed as closely as possible.
We meet up in London or at the Port of Dover, which ever suits you best. From here its a short hop across the channel to France.
WEEKS 1&2 Europe has so much to offer, so we will not rush through but rather go and visit a couple of highlights as we head for Istanbul, the gateway to Asia
Our first stop will be Germany at one of their fabulous campsites. Time to get us all sorted and settled on the truck. Next it's on to the historic city of Prague in the Czech Republic for a couple of nights to lose ourselves in the back streets and explore this incredible city. Go and see the Hradcany Castle, St Vitus Cathedral, Charles Bridge and of course sample a bit of the local beer.
From there we head for Vienna the capital of Austria for a bit of strudel and another historic city. Visit the Schonbrunn Palace and many other historical sites.
Then it's into Eastern Europe and we see a marked difference as we travel through. Budapest, the twinned towns of Buda and Pest are great to explore. Take a cruise on the Danube, go for a thermal bath or have a tasty goulash.
Then Romania, the land of Count Dracula and wandering Gypsies, we play gypsy ourselves as we campout in the enchanting Transylvanian countryside. We visit Bucharest and Sighisorra, Vlad Tepes (Dracula’s) home town. We also get to try the local specialities in the Bohemian restaurants. Then it's on to the Black Sea Coast as we drive through the rolling green hills of Bulgaria heading for Turkey.
WEEK 3 & 4 Turkey, the gateway between two continents, an exotic mixing pot of cultures. Stunning landscapes and immense history.
We stop off in Istanbul with time to explore this awesome city. Wonder at the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, St Sophia or take a cruise on the Bosphorus, the divide between Europe and Asia. Head for the Grand Bazaar and haggle away the day while sipping on scented sweet tea.
From here its off to the heart of Cappodocia where
we head for Goreme. Known as the enchanted valley you almost
expect a gnome or elf to pop out as we explore the underground cities and
churches in the moon-like landscape. The chance to get in a hot air balloon
and drift over this landscape is not to be missed. We also get to experience
the local food, wine and dance as well as seeing many other
sights. Our local guide shows us it all. Great walks to be done or grab
a bike and explore the area on your own wheels.
From here we head for Trabzon a historical city on the Black
Sea, where we find wonderful Byzantine frescoes. The local bazaars make
an interesting shopping trip. Then it's on to Sumela Monastery,
which clings to a cliff; a wonder of construction. We have time to explore
and camp-out nearby and hopefully feast on the local trout! Then its a slow
scenic drive along the Black Sea coast through mountains with slope
hugging tea plantations, we camp-out up in the hills and head for the wonders
of Georgia the next morning.
WEEKS 5 & 6 Georgia and Azerbaijan. Georgia the friendly face of the Caucasus, where tourists are still a novelty and the history and landscapes will blow your mind. The home of wine and an ancient Christian country. We will get to visit many stunning sights some of the Christian monuments date back to the fifth century. Once through the very Cold War style border we are off to explore this friendly country. We load up our local guide to show us the true Georgia.
Our first stop will be the Gonio fortress an ancient, almost totally intact Roman-Byzantine fort with 18 towers, said to be one of the best examples of this type of architecture in the world. Next it's to the nearby town of Batumi, a former Soviet resort town. We get our first chance to taste some of Georgia's diverse food in one of the many cafes along the waterfront. With its fantastic mountain backdrop and coastal town feel, you can easily understand why this was once a premier Soviet era resort town! From here, weather dependent, we may head up to the Sataplia Nature Reserve, home to bear and wolf as well as many dinosaur foot prints.
Then on to Kutasi, Georgia's
second city. With a history traced back more than 4000 years this makes it
one of the oldest in the world. We spend the night in a local homestay and
experience true Georgian hospitality. We visit the ruins of the Bagrati
Cathedral from the
11th century and wander the cobbled streets. We also experience the great
Georgian tradition of toasting and the red wine flows freely. Every household
worth its salt makes their own delicious wine and it is great. We will be
sure to stock the bar on the truck with a couple of litres of this fine
wine.
From here we head into rural Georgia up into the mountains. If the snow has retreated enough we head up into Kazbeki for amazing treks to a glacier and hilltop church. If there is enough snow we may get the chance to do a bit of skiing. The itinerary is flexible as we explore this fantastic country. As we do this we make our way towards Gori, the place of Stalin's birth and we visit the Stalin museum and view his old state rail carriage. Then we head towards Uplistsikhe where we find signs of the ancient Asian trader's route, the Silk Road. We head to Mtskheta, the cultural centre of Georgia, now only a small town, it is great to explore.
On to wonderful Tbilisi,
founded in the 5th century and once a control point on the Silk Road, it
has a rich history. With almost a university town feel the local cafes and
bars on the small cobbles streets allow you to wander or sit and watch the
world go by. The whole town has the typical Georgian friendly feel. If you
are up for it, the local opera house is well worth a visit. This is also
a great party town, though watch out for the locals, they drink vodka like
water and as their guest normally expect you to join in!
From here we head back into rural countryside and head for Kakheti, the heart of Georgian wine making. We visit home wine makers and try the fierce Chacha, the local grape based firewater. We also visit a number of historic Georgian wineries. This is ideal country for free camping and most small villages have a special area for travellers to set-up camp. It's amazing to set-up camp out here and have the locals bring you gifts as they have done for centuries. True Georgian hospitality! Then its on to the Gremi Architectural complex a great example of the Georgian adaptation of the Persian style of architecture with stunning patterned brick work.
The following morning we head for Azerbaijan. An oil rich country with a predominately Muslim population the change in culture is obvious as we cross the border from Georgia. Steeped in history and a vital point in Silk Road times it is dotted with forts and historic sites.
We
head for Sheki a fantastic town set in a valley with
its wonderful caravanserai. Once a Silk Road Traders Inn, you start
to understand a bit more about the history and significants of
the Silk Road. A visit to the Khan's Palace is a must. To explore the
town is like taking a step back in time. The local craftsmen are unique with
many traditional crafts.
From here we head for Baku, camping in the stunning countryside as we go. Baku itself is a modern bustling oil town on the Apsheron Peninsula, with the oil practically oozing out of the ground. The scenery gets more desolate as we approach. All around us we can see the oil pumps seesawing up and down. We visit the Maidens Towers and the Shirvan Shakh Palace. Steeped in history and dotted with forts, it is great to explore. We visit the Gorbastan Mud Volcanoes and the petroglyphs as a day trip. Baku is also our jumpoff point to head cross the Caspian Sea, to the wacky land of Turkmenistan. We will be busy in the port begging and bribing our way onto a trans Caspian ferry. All part of our great adventure!
WEEK 7 Turkmenistan. This is a unique country visited by only an adventurous few each year. Ruled ever since the break-up of the Soviet Union till his death a short while ago Turkmenbashi had a certain scence of style, its all a bit surreal. A gold statue of Turkmenbashi slowly rotates so that his face always faces the sun. The capital city Ashgabat is totally over the top, words just do not do it justice. We get to travel a fair bit of the country and go in search of the semi nomadic Turkmen as we cross the barren plains of the Karakum Desert. This harsh landscape which covers most of Turkmenistan, like most deserts has a harsh beauty. We will campout; many a night under the bright stars with possibly the only light source the candles of the local Turkmen in their yerts.
En route we will visit the caves of Kov-Alta, a great
spot to take a dip in the hot springs more than 65m down a winding staircase.
We visit the burning Darvaza Gas Crater at night, a spectacle
not to be missed. A visit to the vast Tolkuchka Sunday Market is
a must. Just outside Ashgabat the market functions much as
it has done for hundreds of years. Fancy buying a camel, some old Russian
coins or even a huge ex Soviet army truck? Its all up for grabs at this
amazing market.
As we leave the harsh desert landscape we enter the Oxus Valley and visit the ancient ruins of Kunye Urgench. Whilst here we see the Kutluk Timur Minaret the tallest in Asia at 62m. From here it a short hop to the Uzbekistan border
Our travels to date have covered a huge amount of history, but keep in mind its not all about the history. We will really get to know the local people, get to experience their traditions, food, drink and way of life. Its not strange in this part of the world to meet a total stranger and be invited to their house for a drink, be it a cup of sweet tea or your portion of a bottle of vodka. There will also be time to go trekking in the amazing countryside as we travel, staying in some amazing places. Not to mention the odd party and the fun of travelling as a group.
WEEKS 8 & 9 Uzbekistan. This is true Silk Road country with the amazing Silk Road cities of Bukara, Samerkand and Khiva to explore. When Alexander the Great arrived in the 4th century BC these towns where already thriving trade posts. This is the land of the great Khanates and Sultanates.
Our first stop will be Khiva, the best preserved of these three wonderful cities. Its stunning turquoise tiled mosaics are awe-inspiring. As we wander this almost totally intact ancient city we visit the Juma Mosque, Islam Hodja Madrassa, the Kukhna Ark and many other highlights. Our local guide gives us a great insight as to how life must have been in years gone by. Lads; wait until you hear about the harems, ladies; you may not be so impressed! Sit on the rooftop of our local family run hotel at the end of the day and watch the sunset with a cold beer in hand. Its good for the soul!
From there we head for Bukhara a living piece of history, considered by many to be the holiest city in Central Asia. Possibly better known for its infamous prison, the bug pit. This is where Colonel Stoddart and Captain Conolly were held before being executed during the years of the Great Game. See the suggested reading section for some great books about the Great Game and our route. Its not only the many stunning mosques, madrasses and minarets, most open as museums that make Bukhara great. Its the old living city which makes it so interesting. Here you can wander for hours amongst the markets and narrow little streets. Its an interesting and very Muslim way of life, something you rapidly start to enjoy.
From here we head for the Kyzylkhum Desert for a bit of a wander and try and find some of the Uzbek nomads. This area offers some great bush camping and possibly the chance to stay with a nomadic family for a night or two. This is the great thing with this style of travel we get to go where it would be impossible to travel as an independent traveller, or for that matter most tour groups. We meet people who possibly have never seen the likes of us and they enjoy our visit as much as we do.
Next stop is Samarkand, another great Silk Road city, famous for the Registan Square. Highlights include a visit to Bibi Khanum Mosque, the Shakh-l-Zinda Complex the tombs of the great Timur's family. One tomb is said to be the tomb of the prophet Muhammad.
Then its on to something completely different; Tashkent the capital city. The fourth largest city in the old Soviet Union. It is now the major city of Central Asia. Very different with its clean modern feel, it was almost totally rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1966. A great place to stockup with all the creature comforts which you have not seen for while. We spend a night out on the razz Russian style.
Its off to the Fergana Valley next, the bread basket of Asia, a massive oasis sheltered by the Tian Shan and Alai Pamir mountains. Turned into a massive cotton producing area in Soviet times the area has now diversified and produces an assortment of goods. Famous for its silk, we will visit Kokand the gateway to the Fergana valley where we get to see the many attractions including a local silk works.
WEEKS 10 & 11 Kyrgyzstan is all about the mountains and lakes and spending time with the local Kyrgyz and Tadjik people. History takes a back seat for a while as we head for the wilds of this scenic country. Not even tamed in Soviet times we will have some of the best trekking, horse riding and just chilling out time possible. This is where free camping comes into its own as we head for the mountains and lakes.
Our first stop will be Osh, one of the oldest towns in central Asia and once a cross road on the Silk Route. Dating back to 5th century BC it has seen it's bit of history. We stock-up with a vast array of wonderful goodies to last us while we are up in the mountains. The local hams and veg are great. Though the meat market has been known to turn some vegetarian for a couple of weeks.
As we wander we head for Song Kol
Lake and campout on its
shores with stunning mountain backdrop. We join a local family and live in
yerts and eat local style. Its possible to watch a game of 'Ulak-Tartys' goat
polo a truly strange national game played with a goats carcass. The
local horsemen are in a class of their own when it comes to games. Opportunities
to trek and horse ride are boundless, or just time to chillout with
the locals and watch life trickle past. From here we pass through
the town of Kochkor and visit a traditional felt-making workshop. We also
stockup and get the chance to enjoy a shower and a normal bed before heading
for the mountains and lakes further down the road. The local family put on
a strange but interesting local music show. From here we wind our way through
stunning mountain passes to Issyk-kul Lake. At 170km long
and 70km wide this is no small pond. We work our way slowly around the
lake trekking and camp on the beaches of the lake as we go. We also
explore some great little villages along the way. A side trip to the Djety
Oguz Gorge is well worth the detour, the entrance is guarded by seven
huge red sandstone cliffs, offering some of the best trekking in the
area.
Bishkek the capital city is next, a modern Soviet style
city it has everything you could possibly want. The nearby Ala Archa
Gorge National Park is well worth a visit, alpine in feel, it has
lots of wildlife and a great day trek up to a glacier.
From here we get ourselves all sorted to head for the Torugart Pass as we drive through the Tian Shan Mountains on our way to China on a route travelled only by an adventurous few!
WEEKS 12 - 16 China and Tibet. As we continue to follow the Silk Road we head into an area which was closed off for many years to foreigners. We will now be travelling the toughest section of our journey as we face vast deserts and extreme altitude, travelling at times as high as 5300m above sea level. The potential of extreme weather and very basic facilities make this a real challenge and an adventure. Possibly the biggest challenge is the bbureaucracy, but we have been there and done it before, it just takes a bit of time and patience.
Just the thought of the attractions like Kashgar, Lhasa, the Thousand Buddha Caves, Giant Pandas and Everest Base Camp make all the hassles and at times discomfort worthwhile.
Once through the Torugart Pass and into the Xinjiang Province of China, we head for the Silk Road town of Kashgar. This area is home to the Uyghurs people and in ancient times was a vital link on the Silk Road as well being a major centre when The Great Game was being played out between the Russians and the British. We visit the century old Sunday market where more than 50 000 people come in from the countryside to barter, as they have done for thousands of years. The sight of a flying camel as it is loaded into a truck by a huge crane is not so easily forgotten.
From here the Silk Road
splits and we follow the northern road as we skirt the Taklamakan
Desert. Taklamakan translated means
'go in and you won't come out', so it all makes sense as we skip from oasis
to oasis. Doing just as the caravans would have done all those thousands
of years before, though we do it with a touch more speed and comfort.
We stop off in Kucha and visit one of the many Thousand
Buddha Caves.
On to Turpan, the second lowest point on earth
at 152m
below sea level. It can get incredibly hot here, but the lack
of humidity make it quite pleasant. While here we visit the irrigation
channels, the Gaochang Ruins. Then we enter the Gansu
Corridor, a rugged section en-route to Dunhuang. Dunhuang is
the largest and historically most important oasis on this leg of the ancient
silk route. We visit the fantastic Magao Caves with their
impressive Buddhist art.
From here we head for the hills, or rather the mighty mountains of the Himalayas, as we wind up the road onto the Tibetan Plateau. This will take us over many high passes the highest being the Tanggula Shanku Pass at close to 5200m. Not the highest we will go on this trip, but it is our first serious exposure to high altitude. As we wonder along through amazing scenery we start seeing the hardy Tibetan Yak herders. The prayer flags at the passes and other holy places give this place a very special soulful feel. We camp-out in this rough harsh country, luckily we are coming through in the summer so the days are warm and the nights though cool are quite comfortable! The grasslands and surrounding mountains are amazing!
Lhasa is our next major stop, the home of the Dalai Lama and the wonderful Potala Palace. We spend 5 days here. A visit to the Jokhang Temple, Norbulingka Palace, Barkhur Street and the Drepung Monastery allow a deeper understanding of Buddhism.This only scratches the surface as there is so much to see and experience. Here we also get the chance to relax and get ourselves ready for the next big adventure, Everest Base Camp.
From Lhasa we head for New Tingri which will be our jump off point to head for Everest Base Camp. As we travel we will be covering many high passes and altitude is sure to tax a couple of people. We pace ourselves allowing us time to adjust to the altitude. We will be spending a serious amount of time above 4500m. We travel through some of the most remote parts on earth and the scenery is some of the best there is, as we wind up and down the switchbacks on our way to Everest Base Camp. When the cloud clears we see the jagged snow capped peaks in the distance which guide us to Rongphuk Monastery where we will leave the truck and either hike the last 5km to base camp or jump aboard a horse and cart for the ride up. We spend the night at Base Camp and hope for a sunset and sunrise to admire Everest. It is a very special moment as you marvel at the highest point on earth.
From Everest we backtrack a bit to the town of Shigatse, Tibet's second biggest city and a very important cultural centre. At a much lower altitude it is a pleasant place to spend a couple of days and explore the Tashilhunpo Monastery, the seat of the Panchen Lama, Tibet's second spiritual leader. The Chapel of Jampa houses the 26m high statue of the Jampa (the future Buddha). Covered in more than 300kg of gold it is an impressive sight. The local bazaar is a great place to shop as well as eat as we recover from our stint at the base of Everest!
As we head across the roof of the world we bush camp with stunning snow capped peaks surrounding us. This is a very special part of our journey explored a by an adventurous few. By no means an easy route to travel it is sure to be an adventure. We travel via the Tibetan towns of Tesdang, Milin and Yam Dok Lake, we visit the Yongbalanka Palace, Ranwa Lake, and Mount Meili. As we wander we head for Shangrila and the Songtanlin Monastery. We do a two day walk through the Tiger Leaping Gorge, one of the deepest gorges in the world at 3900m the tops of the gorge are snow capped. The stunning town of Lijiang is a definite highlight and we explore the old town before heading for the laid back town of Dali. We are now heading for the Laos border, but still have Kunming to visit and have the chance to visit the Stone Forest, before heading into the Xishuangbanna National Park area and then the border at Megna.
China and Tibet are wonderful places to explore and we will have seen a huge amount as we have travelled through. We now head for Southeast Asia for something very different.
WEEKS 17 & 18 Laos known in antiquity as 'The Land of a Million Elephants' it boasts a rich cultural history. With the Mekong River, its many small ethnic hill tribes as well as many amazing temples and historic sites, it's a great place to explore.
As we come over the border we head for Luang Nam Tha and the Nam Ha National Protected Area. There are many great treks and a chance to do a bit of white water rafting. From here we head for Nong Khiaw for a river trip that will take us down to the wonderful Luang Prabang. We take a couple of days to explore Luang Prabang and its many temples and watch from a street side cafe as orange cloaked monks stroll by. There are many great markets to wander and some interesting food to try.
Vang Vieng a small town set amongts stunning limestone
karst terrain is next, great for caving and walks. The river is also great
to drift down on an inner tube or a kayak! Next we visit the sleepy capital
of Vientiane, we spend a couple of days exploring and getting
our visas for the coming countries. The golden stupa of Pha That Luang is
not to be missed.
As we head south we follow the Mekong River with many great
villages to explore as well as the possibility of more time on the river.
We visit both Tha Khaek and Savannakhet with
their distinctive French influence. En route we visit the stunning Wat
Phu Champasak a relic from the Angkor era.
WEEKS 19 & 20 Vietnam With the communist party still in power, you would think not as capitalism is alive and well on every street corner. With great scenery and the past wars history its a country of many contrasts. We leave the truck for a while as it is not allowed into Vietnam and so use local transport to make our way. We will meetup again at the Cambodia border.
Our first port of call will be Hue, one of Vietnam's cultural and religious centres. The Citadel (Kinh Thanh) and the opulent tombs of the Nguyen emperors are now Unesco World Heritage sites. We take a day to explore these fantastic ruins on the banks of the Song Huong (Perfumed River). Next a touch of trekking from an old French hill station now the national park of Bach Ma. With its great walks and many waterfalls this is a scenic day out. As we head down the coast we pass China Beach the former R&R spot for American GIs.
We are headed for the stunning historic town of Hoi An, another Unesco World Heritage site. We spend a couple of days and the nearby white sand beaches a good spot to top-up the tan. This is also the place to try a local cooking course.
We beach hop down the coast heading
for Nha Trang, for those
keen on diving this is some of Vietnam's best, for the non divers a snorkel
over the local reefs will reveal a diverse amount of underwater
life. We venture inland from here to the central highlands around Dalat,
home to many Montagnards. Renowned for its many beautiful
mountains, lakes, streams and waterfalls we will have ample time to explore.
Then we head for the craziness of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), a city pulsing 24/7. We take a couple of days to try and make sense of this crazy place. We get a chance to visit the Mekong Delta and its wonderful floating markets. Next stop Cambodia and the wanders of the Khmer Empire.
WEEK 21 Cambodia has recently opened its border
to tourism. Once the centre of the Khmer Empire it has some of the world
most amazing temples and palaces
Our first major stop will be Phnom Phen; a bit of a
mix as it definitely has two sides to its apparent charm. A visit to
the chilling Tuol Sleng Museum and the near by Killing
Fields of Choeung reveal a dark past to this now charming city.
With many tastefully restored French Colonial buildings it has many
stylish street side cafes and bars. The Royal Palace and Silver
Pagoda dominate the skyline and are a marvel to behold.
As we continue we drive through lush jungle en route to Siem Reap, which will be our base as we spend two days appreciating the temple of Angkor, the world's largest religious building, an inspiring example of spiritual devotion and ambition. The intricacy of the carving has to be seen to be believed. Next we head for Thailand and the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.
WEEKS 22 & 23 Thailand the land of stunning beaches, islands and amazing friendly people. Rich in culture and adventure but also a great place to chill out. This is beach time heaven!
Bangkok is always on the move, with it's amazing mix of eastern and western cultures. So fasten your seatbelt and enjoy the ride. With its mix of ancient temples overshadowed by skyscrapers and shopping malls and everything from Monks to ping pong balls, it has it all. We spend a couple of days here losing ourselves in this exotic city. Take the sky train or wander the grounds of the Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace. How about a pub-crawl down the infamous Th Khao San. It's all up to you as we explore this vibey city.
From here we head south to the islands
of Ko Sumui, Ko
Tao and Ko Pha-Ngan. Arguably some of the
best beaches in the world. You have five days free time to head wherever
you choose. The perfect place to get that diving qualification perhaps?
Relax and eat some amazing fresh seafood. From here we head for the island
of Ko
Lanta before heading for Malaysia.
WEEK 24 & 25 Malaysia and Singapore. Malaysia has a diverse offering from its thick jungle covered interior to stunning beaches, exotic islands and the cosmopolitan city of Kuala Lumpur.
We cross from Thailand and head for the town of Butterworth on the west coast, which is our jump-off point to Pulau Penang. Formally the Malayan base for the historic East India Company, it's a great spot to take a wander amongst the crumbling colonial buildings. We head east and cross the Malay peninsula heading for the jungle covered island of Pulau Perhentian Kecil one of Malaysia's showpiece islands, unspoilt white beaches, turquoise-blue water and refreshingly undeveloped, this is a prime spot for snorkelling and diving.
Then its back to the mainland and we head for the interior for some serious jungle. We jump aboard boats to enter the Taman Negara National Park for some great walks and spend the night sheltered in an animal hide to try spot the elusive animals, birds and bugs of the jungle. The park is home to tiger, elephant and the elusive tapir. The chance to do a canopy walk is also not to be missed.
Then the cosmopolitan Kuala Lumpur, explore the chaos of JI Petaling (Chinatown), take a stroll through the colonial area around the Merdeka Square or head for the Golden Triangle the central business, shopping and entertainment district. We make our way south from here heading for the historic Melaka with its mixture of influences from China, Holland, Portugal and England from its day as the trading port on the spice route. We soak up Melaka's atmospheric past before heading for Singapore!
Singapore the Lion City and one of Asia's most affluent, with a national passion for food and shopping you can shop till you drop while sampling some funky food. We spend a couple of days exploring before either flying on to Darwin or joining us for the optional visit to Malaysian Borneo and Brunei. If you are interested please ask for the details!
WEEK 26 Darwin the gateway to Australia and the outback and our final destination, it is where we all say goodbye after this epic adventure visiting 3 continents and more than 20 countries.
So get saving and join us on the expedition of your lifetime. A traveller's journey, definitely no packaged tour!