London to Mongolia
22 March - 13 July 2009
London to Mongolia route plan
Below is our intended route for our 16 week expedition from London, UK to Ulaambaatar, Mongolia. If you are doing just a section of this route go to you joining city in these notes. If you are doing the reverse route from Mongolia to London a route plan is available on request but is this same route in reverse. This is a guide only; due to the nature of trans continental expedition things may change due to unexpected circumstances beyond our control. Such may include a bridge having washed away, a pass closed due to landslides or some silly border official having his day's fun with us.
This is all part of the adventure and we always make a plan. We may also change things as we go due to local festivals or unexpected highlights we wish to see. This is no ordinary trip! The itinerary is designed to be flexible and adds to the adventure! So the plan may change by a day here and there but overall the week-by-week plan below will be followed as closely as possible.
We meet up in London or at the Port of Dover, which ever suits you best. From London to the port of Dover will be by bus or train and we will meetup with the truck in the Port of Dover. From here its a short hop across the channel to France.
WEEKS 1&2 Europe has so much to offer, so we will not rush through but rather go and visit a couple of highlights as we head for Istanbul, the gateway to Asia
Our first stop will be Germany at one of their fabulous campsites. Time to get us all sorted and settled on the truck. Next it's on to the historic city of Prague in the Czech Republic for a couple of nights to lose ourselves in the back streets and explore this incredible city. Go and see the Hradcany Castle, St Vitus Cathedral, Charles Bridge and of course sample a bit of the local beer.
From there we head for Vienna the capital of Austria for a bit of strudel and another historic city. Visit the Schonbrunn Palace and many other historical sites.
Then it's into Eastern Europe and we see a marked difference as we travel through. Budapest, the twinned towns of Buda and Pest are great to explore. Take a cruise on the Danube, go for a thermal bath or have a tasty goulash.
Then Romania, the land of Count Dracula and wandering Gypsies, we play gypsy ourselves as we campout in the enchanting Transylvanian countryside. We visit Bucharest and Sighisorra, Vlad Tepes (Dracula’s) home town. We also get to try the local specialities in the Bohemian restaurants. Then it's on to Bulgaria as we drive through the rolling green hills heading for Turkey.
JOINING OR FINISHING POINT FOR 14 WEEK TRIPS
WEEK 3 Turkey, the gateway between two continents, an exotic mixing pot of cultures. Stunning landscapes and immense history.
We stop off in Istanbul with time to explore this awesome city. Wonder at the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, St Sophia or take a cruise on the Bosphorus, the divide between Europe and Asia. Head for the Grand Bazaar and haggle away the day while sipping on scented sweet tea.
From here its off to the heart of Cappodocia where we head for Goreme. Known as the enchanted valley you almost expect a gnome or elf to pop out as we explore the underground cities and churches in the moon-like landscape. The chance to get in a hot air balloon and drift over this landscape is not to be missed. We also get to experience the local food, wine and dance as well as seeing many other sights. Our local guide shows us it all. Great walks to be done or grab a bike and explore the area on your own wheels.
From here we head for Trabzon a historical city on the Black Sea, where we find wonderful Byzantine frescoes. The local bazaars make an interesting shopping trip. Then it's on to Sumela Monastery, which clings to a cliff; a wonder of construction. We have time to explore and camp-out nearby and hopefully feast on the local trout! Then its a slow scenic drive along the Black Sea coast through mountains with slope hugging tea plantations, we camp-out up in the hills and head for the wonders of Georgia the next morning.
WEEKS 4 & 5 Georgia and Azerbaijan. Georgia the friendly face of the Caucasus, where tourists are still a novelty and the history and landscapes will blow your mind. The home of wine and an ancient Christian country. We will get to visit many stunning sights some of the Christian monuments date back to the fifth century. Once through the very Cold War style border we are off to explore this friendly country. We load up our local guide to show us the true Georgia.
Our first
stop will be the Gonio fortress an ancient, almost totally
intact Roman-Byzantine fort with 18 towers, said to be one of the best
examples of this type of architecture in the world. Next it's to the nearby
town of Batumi, a former Soviet resort town. We get our
first chance to taste some of Georgia's diverse food in one of the many
cafes along the waterfront. With its fantastic mountain backdrop and coastal
town feel, you can easily understand why this was once a premier Soviet
era resort town! The we head for the hills and the small mountain Village
of Mistia, they only built the road in here in 1956 and is still an isolated
gem up close to the Russian border, fanatastic hikes and many stunning
small churhes and fued towers to explore.
Then
on to Kutasi, Georgia's second city. With a history traced
back more than 4000 years this makes it one of the oldest in the world.
We spend the night in a local homestay and experience true Georgian hospitality.
We visit the ruins of the Bagrati Cathedral from the
11th century and wander the cobbled streets. We also experience the great
Georgian tradition of toasting and the red wine flows freely. Every household
worth its salt makes their own delicious wine and it is great. We will
be sure to stock the bar on the truck with a couple of litres of this
fine wine.
From here we head into rural Georgia up into the mountains. If the snow has retreated enough we head up into Kazbeki for amazing treks to a glacier and hilltop church. If there is enough snow we may get the chance to do a bit of skiing. The itinerary is flexible as we explore this fantastic country. As we do this we make our way towards Gori, the place of Stalin's birth and we visit the Stalin museum and view his old state rail carriage. Then we head towards Uplistsikhe where we find signs of the ancient Asian trader's route, the Silk Road. We head to Mtskheta, the cultural centre of Georgia, now only a small town, it is great to explore.
On to wonderful Tbilisi,
founded in the 5th century and once a control point on the Silk Road,
it has a rich history. With almost a university town feel the local cafes
and bars on the small cobbles streets allow you to wander or sit and watch
the world go by. The whole town has the typical Georgian friendly feel.
If you are up for it, the local opera house is well worth a visit. This
is also a great party town, though watch out for the locals, they drink
vodka like water and as their guest normally expect you to join in!
From here we head back into rural countryside and head for Kakheti, the heart of Georgian wine making. We visit home wine makers and try the fierce Chacha, the local grape based firewater. We also visit a number of historic Georgian wineries. This is ideal country for free camping and most small villages have a special area for travellers to set-up camp. It's amazing to set-up camp out here and have the locals bring you gifts as they have done for centuries. True Georgian hospitality! Then its on to the Gremi Architectural complex a great example of the Georgian adaptation of the Persian style of architecture with stunning patterned brick work.
The following morning we head for Azerbaijan. An oil rich country with a predominately Muslim population the change in culture is obvious as we cross the border from Georgia. Steeped in history and a vital point in Silk Road times it is dotted with forts and historic sites.
We
head for Sheki a fantastic town set in a valley with
its wonderful caravanserai. Once a Silk Road Traders Inn, you start to
understand a bit more about the history and significants of the Silk Road.
A visit to the Khan's Palace is a must. To explore the town is like taking
a step back in time. The local craftsmen are unique with many traditional
crafts. From here if the road is open we head for the mounatin village
of Lahic and take a step back in time in this wonderful village.
From here we head for Baku, camping in the stunning countryside as we go. Baku itself is a modern bustling oil town on the Apsheron Peninsula, with the oil practically oozing out of the ground. The scenery gets more desolate as we approach. All around us we can see the oil pumps seesawing up and down. We visit the Maidens Towers and the Shirvan Shakh Palace. Steeped in history and dotted with forts, it is great to explore. Baku is also our jumpoff point to head cross the Caspian Sea, to the wacky land of Turkmenistan. We will be busy in the port begging and bribing our way onto a trans Caspian ferry. All part of our great adventure!
WEEK
6 Turkmenistan. This is a unique country visited by only an
adventurous few each year. Ruled ever since the break-up of the Soviet
Union till his death a short while ago Turkmenbashi had
a certain scence of style, its all a bit surreal. A gold statue
of Turkmenbashi slowly rotates so that his face always faces the sun.
The capital city Ashgabat is totally over the top,
words just do not do it justice. We get to travel a fair bit of the
country and go in search of the semi nomadic Turkmen as we cross the
barren plains of the Karakum Desert. This harsh landscape
which covers most of Turkmenistan, like most deserts has a harsh beauty.
We will campout; many a night under the bright stars with possibly the
only light source the candles of the local Turkmen in their yerts.
En route
we will visit the caves of Kov-Alta, a great spot to
take a dip in the hot springs more than 65m down a winding staircase.
We visit the burning Darvaza Gas Crater at night, a spectacle
not to be missed. A visit to the vast Tolkuchka Sunday Market is
a must. Just outside Ashgabat the market functions much as it has done
for hundreds of years. Fancy buying a camel, some old Russian coins or
even a huge ex Soviet army truck? Its all up for grabs at this amazing
market.
As we leave the harsh desert landscape we enter the Oxus Valley and visit the ancient ruins of Kunye Urgench. Whilst here we see the Kutluk Timur Minaret the tallest in Asia at 62m. From here it a short hop to the Uzbekistan border
Our travels to date have covered a huge amount of history, but keep in mind its not all about the history. We will really get to know the local people, get to experience their traditions, food, drink and way of life. Its not strange in this part of the world to meet a total stranger and be invited to their house for a drink, be it a cup of sweet tea or your portion of a bottle of vodka. There will also be time to go trekking in the amazing countryside as we travel, staying in some amazing places. Not to mention the odd party and the fun of travelling as a group.
WEEKS 7 Uzbekistan. This is true Silk Road country with the amazing Silk Road cities of Khiva, Bukara and Samerkand to explore. When Alexander the Great arrived in the 4th century BC these towns where already thriving trade posts. This is the land of the great Khanates and Sultanates.
Our local guide gives us a great insight as to how life must have been in years gone by. Lads; wait until you hear about the harems, ladies; you may not be so impressed! Sit on the rooftop of our local family run hotel at the end of the day and watch the sunset with a cold beer in hand. Its good for the soul!
Bukhara a
living piece of history, considered by many to be the holiest city in
Central Asia. Possibly better known for its infamous prison, the bug pit.
This is where Colonel Stoddart and Captain Conolly were held before being
executed during the years of the Great Game. See the suggested reading
section for some great books about the Great Game and our route. Its not
only the many stunning mosques, madrasses and minarets, most open as museums
that make Bukhara great. Its the old living city which makes it so interesting.
Here you can wander for hours amongst the markets and narrow little streets.
Its an interesting and very Muslim way of life, something you rapidly
start to enjoy.
From
here we head for the Kyzylkhum Desert for a bit of a
wander and try and find some of the Uzbek nomads. This
area offers some great bush camping and possibly the chance to stay with
a nomadic family for a night or two. This is the great thing with this
style of travel we get to go where it would be impossible to travel as
an independent traveller, or for that matter most tour groups. We meet
people who possibly have never seen the likes of us and they enjoy our
visit as much as we do.
Next stop is Samarkand, another great Silk Road city, famous for the Registan Square. Highlights include a visit to Bibi Khanum Mosque, the Shakh-l-Zinda Complex the tombs of the great Timur's family. One tomb is said to be the tomb of the prophet Muhammad.
JOINING AND FINISHING POINT FOR 5.5 WEEKS TRIPS
Week 9 Tashkent the capital city of Uzbekistan. The fourth largest city in the old Soviet Union. It is now the major city of Central Asia. Very different with its clean modern feel, it was almost totally rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1966. A great place to stockup with all the creature comforts which you have not seen for while. We spend a night out on the razz Russian style.
Its off to the Fergana Valley next, the bread basket of Asia, a massive oasis sheltered by the Tian Shan and Alai Pamir mountains. Turned into a massive cotton producing area in Soviet times the area has now diversified and produces an assortment of goods. Famous for its silk, we will visit Kokand the gateway to the Fergana valley where we get to see the many attractions including a local silk works.
WEEKS 10 & 11 Kyrgyzstan is all about the mountains and lakes and spending time with the local Kyrgyz and Tadjik people. History takes a back seat for a while as we head for the wilds of this scenic country. Not even tamed in Soviet times we will have some of the best trekking, horse riding and just chilling out time possible. This is where free camping comes into its own as we head for the mountains and lakes.
Our first stop will be Osh, one of the oldest towns in central Asia and once a cross road on the Silk Route. Dating back to 5th century BC it has seen it's bit of history. We stock-up with a vast array of wonderful goodies to last us while we are up in the mountains. The local hams and veg are great. Though the meat market has been known to turn some vegetarian for a couple of weeks.
As we wander we head for Song Kol Lake and campout
on its shores with stunning mountain backdrop. We join a local family
and live in yerts and eat local style. Its possible 
to
watch a game of 'Ulak-Tartys' goat polo a truly strange
national game played with a goats carcass. The local horsemen are in a
class of their own when it comes to games. Opportunities to trek and horse
ride are boundless, or just time to chillout with the locals and watch
life trickle past. From here we pass through the town of Kochkor and visit
a traditional felt-making workshop. We also stockup and get the chance
to enjoy a shower and a normal bed before heading for the mountains and
lakes further down the road. The local family put on a strange but interesting
local music show. From here we wind our way through stunning mountain
passes to Issyk-kul Lake. At 170km long and 70km wide
this is no small pond. We work our way slowly around the lake trekking
and camp on the beaches of the lake as we go. We also explore some great
little villages along the way. A side trip to the Djety Oguz Gorge is
well worth the detour, the entrance is guarded by seven huge red sandstone
cliffs, offering some of the best trekking in the area.
Bishkek the capital city, a modern Soviet style city it has everything you could possibly want. The nearby Ala Archa Gorge National Park is well worth a visit, alpine in feel, it has lots of wildlife and a great day trek up to a glacier.
WEEK
12 Kazakhstan. Bishkek is just across the river from Kazakhstan
and its is a short drive to our next country. We head for the most cosmopolitan
city of Central Asia, Almaty. We spend a couple of days exploring this
city and enjoy its night life.
Next
we head into the Tian Shan and Altai Shan mountains, spending time with
the local herders. Stunning snow capped peaks surround us as we head for
Russia. This is great free camping country and the local people welcome
us where ever we stop. There are numourous opertunties to walk and horse
ride.
Week
13 Russia/Siberia Just the mention of Siberia brings to mind
a frozen waste where enermies of the former USSR where sent. In winter
this is a freezing place, but as we are coming in through in the summer
it is a land of stunning lakes, grass lands and forests ideal to explore
on foot or by horse. The friendly people are so willing to show us this
forgoten part of the world. More stunning camps and home stays to be
enjoyed. The local food and vodka are not to be missed.
Week 14 - 16 Mongolia One of the last frontiers for overlanding and the birth place of Genghis Khan. With most of the population still being nomadic herdsmen not much has changed in 100’s of years. There is very little infrastructure and the concept of a fence or boundary is foreign in this stunning part of the world. Many of the road are hardly more than tracks and it is sure to be an adventure making our way. The stunning scenery as we go and the friendly people make up for the tough road conditions.
As
we hop from one stunning camp to the next our destination is the Khovsgol
Lake National park the premier national park of Mongolia. Surrounded by
peaks of 2000m this alphine lake of 2760sq km is surrounded by pine forests
and lush medows with yak and horses grazing all over the place. Rated
as the world’s 14th largest source of fresh drinking water it is
fed by 96 rivers and only one river flows out. The lake is full of fish
like lennock and sturgeon. The surround woods are home to argali sheep,
ibex, bear, sable and moose as well as a host of birds. The area around
the lake is also home to three unique people the Darkhard, Buryat and
the Tsaatan. This is a very special part of the worlds visited by a lucky
few. We spend 6 days really exploring be it on foot or on horse back.
Leaving here we continue free camping as we explore more of this enchanting land, we stop off in Moron as we go to stockup with fresh food and spend the night in a hotel for a break from bushcamping.
Next we head for a Ger camp on the volanic lake Terkhin Tsagaan, known in english as the Great White Lake. Surrounded by dormant volcanoes the scenery is very different from Khovsgol Lake, but still mindblowing. We stay with a local family in traditional Gers, the felt and wood tents that the local herdsmen live in. These come with a touch of luxuary with hot showers and all our meals prepared for us. We spend 2 nights enjoying the local hospitality before going free camping at another senic area of the lake. From here we head for Tsetsrleg one of the most stunning towns in Mongolia, meaning ‘garden’ the town is ringed by scenic mountains with good museums and a stunning local temple to explore. We spend a couple of nights in a nice hotel and enjoy this unique part of the world.
Next we head for Erdene Zuu Khiid monasatary the first Budhists monastary in Mongolia. The name means Hundred Treasures, building started in 1586,it was damaged over the years with the Stalanistic purge doing the most damage, even so there is a wealth of historic artifacts and a ongoing restoration project is making good progress. Erdene Zuu is also a working monastary. We camp just out of town and take a couple of days to explore.
From here it’s a short drive to Ulaambaatar the capital city. We arrive for the beginning of the Naadam Festival the highlight of the Mongolia festival calander. The festivals history goes back to 209BC. Part family reunion, part fair and part nomad Olympics it’s a festival not to be missed. It has its roots in the nomad assemblies and hunting extravaganzas. Till this day it is a symbol of the gethering of the nine tribes of the Mongols. We go to the main festival in Ulaanbaartar, but hopefully will be able to visit one of the smaller surrounding villages and see there slightly lower key festivals to see these celabrations untaited by the tourist machine. There is also time to explore the museums and monasteries in this laid back city.
Our final destination if you have come across from London, it is where we all say goodbye after this epic adventure. If this is your starting point prepare yourself for the journey of a lifetime!
So get saving and join us on the expedition of your lifetime. A traveller's journey, definitely no packaged tour!